The trick with eyeliner on hooded eyes is to draw it for the eye you have when it’s open, not the one you see in the mirror when you look down. A fold of skin covers part of the lid. Any line placed on that lid can vanish, smudge or look like it has been cut in half. Choose the right placement (outer corner, tightlined lash base, or a wing built from the lower lash line), pick a formula that doesn’t budge on the fold, and make the wing a little longer than feels natural. That’s most of it.
Below, we walk through what a hooded eye is, which eyeliner styles flatter it, how to do a winged liner step by step, and how to stop it transferring.
TL;DR
- Hooded eyes have limited visible lid, so liner should define the lash line and outer corner rather than sit on the lid as a thick, closed-off stripe.
- Bat-wing shapes, outer-corner liner, tightlining and reverse liner all work well because they define the eye while keeping lid space open.
- Gel and waterproof formulas are less prone to smudging on the fold, and a primer or eyeshadow base helps liner stay put.
- Draw your wing with eyes open and relaxed, don’t stretch the skin, and go slightly longer than you think you should.
Table of Contents
- What counts as a hooded eye?
- Where to place eyeliner on hooded eyes
- Which eyeliner style suits you?
- How to do winged eyeliner on hooded eyes, step by step
- Choosing a formula that stays put
- Troubleshooting common problems
- Tools that make it easier
- Perspective: what we’d tell a friend
- Shop the look
- Extra tips for different eye shapes within the hooded family
- A simple everyday routine
- FAQ
- Sources
What counts as a hooded eye?
A hooded eye is one where the skin below the brow bone folds down over the crease, so the crease is hidden or only partly visible when your eyes are open. Some people have a little hood, others have a lid that disappears almost entirely. It’s common, it’s a normal feature of eye shape, and it often becomes more noticeable with age as skin softens. It’s not a flaw to hide. It simply changes where makeup shows up.
Here’s a quick test. Look straight into a mirror with your eyes relaxed and open. If you can’t see the crease, or you see only a sliver of lid, you have some degree of hooding. Now close your eyes. The shape you see (the full lid, crease and brow bone) is the canvas you draw on, but the shape that matters is the open one. That mismatch is the root of nearly every hooded-eye eyeliner frustration.
The usual complaints are:
- The wing looks perfect with eyes closed, then gets chopped by the fold when you open them.
- Liner transfers onto the skin above and leaves dots or a smudged copy of the line.
- A thick line across the lid makes the eye look smaller.
- The line is visible only when you look up.
Every technique below is aimed at one of those.
Where to place eyeliner on hooded eyes
Placement matters more than product. Makeup artists quoted by Vogue and Who What Wear keep coming back to the same few ideas.
Outer-corner liner
Makeup artist D’Amelio Ventre recommends focusing the liner on the outer corner of the eye rather than applying a thick line across the whole lid, so the liner doesn’t overpower the eye shape. This is the easiest place to start. A short, soft smudge or a thin line that thickens slightly toward the outer edge lifts the eye without needing a precise wing.
Tightlining
Tightlining means placing liner right at the base of the upper lashes, in the gap between them, or along the upper waterline. Makeup artist Skinner suggests tightlining the upper waterline to add depth at the lash base without covering up lid space, and a soft outward wing can sit on top of that. It suits anyone who wants definition but doesn’t have much lid to play with. It also leaves nothing visible on the fold to smudge.
Bat-wing shapes
Vogue’s expert panel notes that bat-wing shapes, outer-corner liner and tightlining all define the eyes while preserving lid space. A bat wing is drawn with the eye closed, and the idea is that the shape, which looks a bit exaggerated with eyes shut, lines up to look straight and seamless once your eyes are open.
Reverse liner
Reverse eyeliner means drawing along the lower lash line and winging it out from there, rather than starting on the upper lid. Who What Wear reports it as an effective alternative for hooded eyes, because the wing starts below the fold and is far less likely to be swallowed by it.
What to avoid near the inner corner
According to Vogue’s 2025 expert advice, it’s best to leave the area near the tear duct free of liner, or keep it extremely fine, to avoid making the eyes look smaller. Starting from the pupil and moving outwards helps keep the eyes looking open.
A broader rule from Ventre: use liner to enhance the natural shape and steer clear of techniques that “close off” the limited lid space you have.
Which eyeliner style suits you?
Use this as a starting point, then adjust to your own lid.
| Style | Best for | How it behaves on a hood |
|---|---|---|
| Soft outer-corner smudge | Beginners, everyday looks | Forgiving, no precise edge to get cut off |
| Tightlining | Almost no visible lid | Nothing sits on the fold, so there’s little to transfer |
| Bat wing | Anyone who loves a defined flick | Designed to look straight once the eye is open |
| Reverse liner | Heavier hoods, downturned outer corners | Wing starts below the fold, so it stays visible |
| Thin upper line with a short flick | Lids with some visible space | Thin lines stay visible and don’t get covered by the hood |
That last row is a general tip we hear often from artists: keep the line on the thinner side so it doesn’t disappear under the hood. If you’re after a bolder look, build it up in the outer third only.
How to do winged eyeliner on hooded eyes, step by step
Here’s a method that pulls together the advice above. Go slowly the first few times. It’s far easier to add than to remove.
- Prep the lid. Apply a long-wearing, water-resistant eyeshadow primer or a matching eyeshadow over the lid and up to the brow bone. Who What Wear’s guidance is to start with a long-wearing, water-resistant primer or shadow, then use gel or liquid liner.
- Sketch with a pencil first. Makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes sketches with a malleable pencil, then goes over it with a tiny angled brush and liquid liner. A soft pencil lets you correct the angle before committing.
- Find your wing angle with eyes open. Look straight ahead in the mirror, tilt your chin slightly up so you can see your lash line, and imagine a line from the outer corner of your lower lash line toward the end of your eyebrow. That’s your wing’s direction.
- Don’t pull the skin. Makeup artist Russell advises against stretching the skin, because the shape changes once the eye rests. Rest your elbow on a table and keep the eyelid relaxed. If you need support, steady your hand rather than tugging the lid.
- Draw the wing first, then connect. Mark where the wing ends, then draw a thin line from that point back toward the middle of the upper lash line. Fill in the gap between the wing and the lashes.
- Check with eyes open, then adjust. Open your eyes and look straight at the mirror. If the wing is cut off by the fold, extend it outwards rather than upwards. Russell notes that people tend to be shy about wing size, and extending the wing further out often looks neater and more flattering when the eye is fully rested.
- Keep the inner corner light. Start the line around the pupil or a little further out, rather than right at the tear duct.
- Set it. Pat a matching eyeshadow over the line with a small brush to lock it in. For reverse liner, Who What Wear specifically recommends setting it with matching eyeshadow.
The bat-wing variation
If the open-eye method feels fiddly, try the closed-eye version. With your eyes closed, draw the wing upward and outward in a bold, slightly exaggerated shape, then open your eyes. Peace, quoted in Vogue, says that a batwing shape drawn when the eye is closed is placed to look straight and seamless once the eyes are open. Give it a go, and tidy the edge with a cotton bud if it’s a touch dramatic.
A smoky wing for a softer finish
If a sharp flick feels harsh, smudge the wing. Use a small brush and a brown or soft black shadow over the wing to diffuse the edge. A smoky wing is more forgiving on a hood because there’s no crisp line to look uneven.
Choosing a formula that stays put
The fold is where liner goes to die. When your eyes open, the lid presses against the skin under the brow, and anything creamy or oily can transfer. Here’s what the research points to:
- Gel or waterproof formulas. Vogue’s experts recommend gel or waterproof eyeliner for hooded eyes because they’re less prone to smudging on the fold.
- Waterproof for the waterline. To prevent drainage and smudging under the eye, Vogue notes waterproof formulas are effective for waterline application.
- A base layer. A primer or matching eyeshadow gives liner something to grip.
- Powder as a pigment. Hughes also suggests mixing a matte eyeshadow with setting spray to make your own liner pigment, which is handy if you want a brown or coloured line in a precise shade.
Pencil, gel, liquid or felt tip?
A pencil is the easiest for sketching and for tightlining, but check that it’s smudge-resistant. Gel pots with an angled brush give the most control for a wing and tend to hold. Liquid and felt-tip liners give the sharpest edge, though they can be less forgiving if your hand wobbles. Many people use two: a pencil to map out the shape and a liquid or gel to finish.
Black or brown?
Black gives the most contrast, while a deep brown softens the line and suits everyday wear. If you’ve been told hooded eyes need a dramatic line to show up, ignore it. A well-placed brown wing reads well and feels lighter on the lid. Matching your colour to your complexion matters too. If you’re still working out your palette, our guides to eyeshadow for blue eyes and makeup for olive skin cover shades and formulas that complement different colourings.
Troubleshooting common problems
My wing disappears when I open my eyes
The wing is sitting on the hood. Extend it outwards along the line of your lower lash, or use reverse liner so the wing starts below the fold. Next, check you’re drawing with the eye relaxed rather than lifted.
The liner transfers onto my lid
Switch to a gel or waterproof formula, prime the lid first, and let the liner dry for a few seconds before you open your eyes fully. Press a matching eyeshadow over it. Then blot any excess oil on the skin above the lash line, since oily lids make everything slide.
My eyes look smaller with liner
Likely culprits: a thick line across the whole lid, liner all the way into the inner corner, or heavy liner on the lower lash line. Pull the line back to the outer two-thirds and keep the inner corner clean or very fine. If you want lower-lash definition, smudge a soft shade through the outer half only.
The two sides don’t match
Hooded eyes are often slightly asymmetric. Draw the wing on one eye, then use a ruler-like trick: hold a clean brush handle from the outer nostril past the outer corner of the eye to see where the wing should point on the other side. Allow for a little difference. Almost nobody’s eyes match perfectly.
Tools that make it easier
- A tiny angled brush for gel or liquid liner gives precise control.
- A malleable pencil for sketching the wing before committing.
- Cotton buds and a little micellar water to clean up the edge, or to sharpen the flick.
- A small flat or pencil brush for setting the line with eyeshadow.
- A hand mirror held at chin height so you can see the lid as it looks when your eyes are open and relaxed.
An easy trick is to do your liner before mascara, so you can see the lash line, then curl and coat the lashes afterwards. Lifted lashes help open the eye and give the wing a cleaner base.
Perspective: what we’d tell a friend
At HUSL Beauty, we spend a lot of time around hairdressers and beauty therapists, and the same thing comes up at the chair: people are often told what a feature “should” do rather than shown how to work with it. Hooded eyes are a good example. The advice isn’t to hide the hood or to fight it. It’s to put the definition where it will actually show, in the outer corner and along the lash base, and to check the result with your eyes open.
We’d also say to start soft. A smudged brown outer corner takes a minute, forgives a shaky hand and looks good on most people. Once that feels comfortable, move to a thin wing, then reverse liner or a bat wing if you want a sharper look. Practise on a quiet evening, not ten minutes before an event. And if you have a favourite makeup artist or beauty therapist, ask them to show you the angle that suits your eye shape. Ten minutes of in-person guidance beats an hour of tutorials.
— Rob
Shop the look
We curate hair, skin and makeup from professional brands, with recommendations from the hairdressers and beauty therapists who use them. If you’re building an everyday eye routine, start with our makeup range and look for gel or waterproof liners, soft pencils and a small angled brush. Prices and availability are on each product page, and our stylists’ recommendations are there to help you choose.
Extra tips for different eye shapes within the hooded family
Not all hoods are the same, so a few adjustments are worth knowing.
Mild hooding with a partly visible crease. You can get away with a thin upper line and a modest flick. Keep the line fine so it stays visible beneath the fold.
Heavy hooding where the lid is hidden. Tightlining and reverse liner are your friends. A line on the lid itself will rarely be seen, so place definition where the eye can show it: the lash base and the outer corner.
Downturned outer corners. Lift the eye by angling the wing slightly upward and out, following the line of the lower lash. Reverse liner helps here because it anchors the wing below the hood.
Mature skin. Skin can get softer and a little creased with age, so formulas that dry quickly and don’t drag matter more. Use a primer, keep the line thin, and avoid heavy glittery textures that settle into creases. Eyeliner isn’t out of style for any age. What matters is a line that suits your eye shape and sits comfortably.
A simple everyday routine
When you want an easy five-minute eye look, this works for most hooded eyes:
- Apply primer or a neutral matte shadow to the lid.
- Blend a soft brown shadow into the outer corner and lightly through the crease area above the fold.
- Tightline the upper lash base with a waterproof pencil.
- Add a short, soft wing in gel liner, extended a touch further than feels natural.
- Set the wing with matching shadow.
- Curl the lashes and add mascara, concentrating on the outer lashes.
That sequence takes a few minutes once you’ve practised, and it gives a defined eye without a heavy line sitting on the fold.
FAQ
Are hooded eyes beautiful?
Yes. Hooded eyes are a natural eye shape that many people have, and they often look striking with the right definition. The aim of makeup isn’t to change the shape. It’s to place liner and shadow where they show when your eyes are open.
How do I apply winged eyeliner on hooded eyes?
Prime the lid, sketch the wing with a soft pencil, and keep the skin relaxed rather than stretched. Draw the wing outwards along the line of your lower lash, then connect it to the upper lash line with a thin line. Check with your eyes open and extend the wing a little further if the fold cuts it off.
What is the best eyeliner formula for hooded eyes?
Gel and waterproof formulas are the usual recommendation, because they’re less likely to smudge onto the fold. Pair them with a primer or eyeshadow base and set the line with a matching powder. A thin line often stays more visible than a thick one.
Should an older woman wear eyeliner?
Absolutely, if she likes it. A thin, well-set line along the lash base or outer corner usually looks softer and more comfortable than a heavy lid line. Choose a quick-drying formula and a primer so it doesn’t settle into creases.
Is eyeliner out of style?
Eyeliner isn’t going anywhere. Styles shift between graphic and soft, but outer-corner definition, tightlining and subtle wings all remain easy to wear. Choose the version that suits your eye shape and your day.
Sources
- Who What Wear: How to Do Winged Eyeliner on Hooded Eyes
- Who What Wear: How to Do Eye Makeup for Hooded Eyes
- Vogue: 5 Best Eyeliners for Hooded Eyes
- Vogue: The Best Eye Makeup for Hooded Eyes
- Allure: How to Create Winged Liner on Hooded Eyes